|
Post by lorenvorreiter on Feb 27, 2024 18:21:15 GMT
I just cut the shelf for a little bit of a cleaner look. I still need to finish up the edges of the cuts While I wait for a more permanent pump cover i am using a plastic box (that happens to fit nicely) Also, not mentioned enough here, but love having water and a squeegee for cleaning off the bugs (rare to have chargers with squeegees) Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by seattlesteve on Feb 28, 2024 5:05:50 GMT
Thank you for asking these questions:) I have the filter at the Rivian side (not filtering right at the water spigot end).
I should clarify that my efforts to eliminate all plastic taste comes down to me using the wooter for coffee brewing on the road. Since I drink the coffee black, even a slight plastic taste is noticeable. That's no longer the situation, though, and I'm merrily drinking my coffee with simply the best flavors of the coffee.
|
|
|
Post by phatman113 on Feb 29, 2024 16:28:43 GMT
I just cut the shelf for a little bit of a cleaner look. I still need to finish up the edges of the cuts While I wait for a more permanent pump cover i am using a plastic box (that happens to fit nicely) Also, not mentioned enough here, but love having water and a squeegee for cleaning off the bugs (rare to have chargers with squeegees) I haven't seen someone modify the OEM shelf, that looks pretty clean!. I've definitely been looking to modify one of the plastic/rubber frunk mats (I only know of BestEVMod version, but there may be others...) I'm going to wait for the bigger pump first though so I don't have to cut more holes later...
|
|
|
Post by BoxGods on Feb 29, 2024 18:28:52 GMT
I just cut the shelf for a little bit of a cleaner look. I still need to finish up the edges of the cuts While I wait for a more permanent pump cover i am using a plastic box (that happens to fit nicely) Also, not mentioned enough here, but love having water and a squeegee for cleaning off the bugs (rare to have chargers with squeegees) I haven't seen someone modify the OEM shelf, that looks pretty clean!. I've definitely been looking to modify one of the plastic/rubber frunk mats (I only know of BestEVMod version, but there may be others...) I'm going to wait for the bigger pump first though so I don't have to cut more holes later... PLEASE wait as the flange on the new pump housing will make that job a LOT easier. I've just ordered professional 3D prints to triple check that everything fits perfectly before ordering the mold tools for casting the pump housing in aluminum. Going as fast as I can guys.
|
|
|
Post by BoxGods on Mar 1, 2024 21:27:29 GMT
Time for a more detailed update on the Seaflo 23 pump upgrade. We shipped the first run of 12 gal frunk tanks with an internal pump that I chose primarily because it was quieter and to a lesser extent because it was internal which made for a cleaner look overall. Personally, I preferred the external on demand Seaflo 23 as it has MUCH better pressure, it can run a longer hose--Jeff tested it with a 20 foot hose with no problems--and because it only runs when you trigger the sprayer. It also draws about half the amperage of the internal pump. As I mentioned, the downside was that it is louder--not something you would want to run at your campsite in the early morning to make coffee while others are still sleeping. As an experiment, I put together 10 Seaflo 23 test kits for people to try out and compare to the stock internal pump. They were sold on a first come first served basis to hopefully get a fairly random sample group--no cherry picking IOW. All 10 people with the Seaflo preferred it to the stock pump hands down. The consensus was that the on demand feature--vs always on--and the big increase in water pressure were worth the slightly higher sound level. Most said the Seaflo 23 didn't SEEM that much louder because it only runs when you're actually spraying, and that the sound was lower frequency so less annoying--sound vs noise. Their biggest "downside" was being worried that the pump being on top of the tank exposed it to potential damage from anything sliding around in the frunk while driving. They wanted the external pump but also wanted it inside some kind of durable protective casing. You can read through posts above that talk about the different materials I tried for the casing and the pros and cons of each. You will also see from previous posts that pretty much everyone wanted an aluminum case and were lukewarm at best on plastic. My only issue with a machined aluminum case was that it looked kind of blocky and not very "automotive" but after looking into cast aluminum, I think we have the best of both worlds. An OEM / automotive look, good mass dampening for the sound, custom seals also for sound mitigation, and a threaded fitting for both ends of the pick-up hose which eliminates the hose clamps used for the first run. We are also switching to the same anti-kink hose used for the fill lines. The power wires have also been cleaned up to into a single clean/neat cable. Surface finish will be black powder coat--though if there is enough interest, we can look at a yellow powder coat similar to the brake calipers on your truck. When the email goes out to everyone there will be a question about color. Wall thickness on the aluminum casting is about 6mm (1/4 inch) so durability is a non issue. I also added a fairly wide flange for those of you who want to use rubber frunk mats. Price will be in the $125 - $150 range--most likely closer to $150 as the cast aluminum parts are not cheap at such low volume. That price will include the cast aluminum housing, the Seaflo 23 pump, pickup hose, power cable, and all the hardware needed. Essentially, a drop in replacement that takes about 10-15 minutes and is VERY easy to do. As always, questions and comments are welcome.
|
|
|
Post by Dgephri on Mar 1, 2024 22:26:14 GMT
To add in to what has already been said: 1. I would not go back to the internal pump under any circumstance of choice being involved. 2. I've had two collapsible chairs in my frunk on top of the wootr with the seaflow installed. They are stored near the driver's side so not on top of the seaflow. No issues to date but I would prefer some case/ armor/ housing in case someone were to drop something on top of the seaflow. 3. I'm really close to ordering a 150ft hose because I think it's hilarious and my curiosity often costs me a little money. The stock pump would have zero chance to do that.
|
|
|
Post by BoxGods on Mar 2, 2024 15:14:20 GMT
Some context for the pump renders posted above: 1. The Seaflo is a MUCH better pump and will ship standard on any future frunk tank runs. 2. It will fit existing tanks from the first run--an email will be going out to current owners next week. 3. It's a very easy drop in replacement--four screws. 4. The goal is to have it out to everyone for spring--the exact date will depend on how long it takes us to get to 100 orders for the run. 5. The Seaflo is especially useful for anyone considering our Camp Kitchen.
|
|
shaunn08
General
R1T Camping and Tailgating. Hopefully with an R2 in ~2026
Posts: 7
|
Post by shaunn08 on Mar 7, 2024 11:57:59 GMT
Would it be expensive to create a custom shelf instead of cutting out holes in the current shelf in the frunk? Im of the mindset that Id be willing to pay for a cleaner look that is custom to the pump box and fill holes.
|
|
|
Post by atraf on Mar 7, 2024 21:40:50 GMT
Would it be expensive to create a custom shelf instead of cutting out holes in the current shelf in the frunk? Im of the mindset that Id be willing to pay for a cleaner look that is custom to the pump box and fill holes. Possibly with either the right hole or a removable part that can account for the upcoming active cooler, yes please!
Also @boxgod this looks fantastic, can't wait to get mine (definitely team yellow).
Lastly, I know you haven't forgotten about it and that there's other things in queue buuuuuut that v12 adapter kit, would love to have it sooner rather than later (with anticipated provision to allow switching power between the pump and the upcoming cooler)
|
|
|
Post by BoxGods on Mar 8, 2024 9:01:30 GMT
Would it be expensive to create a custom shelf instead of cutting out holes in the current shelf in the frunk? Im of the mindset that Id be willing to pay for a cleaner look that is custom to the pump box and fill holes. Possibly with either the right hole or a removable part that can account for the upcoming active cooler, yes please! Also @boxgod this looks fantastic, can't wait to get mine (definitely team yellow). Lastly, I know you haven't forgotten about it and that there's other things in queue buuuuuut that v12 adapter kit, would love to have it sooner rather than later (with anticipated provision to allow switching power between the pump and the upcoming cooler)
I am a big fan of yellow. Unfortunately every time I say the word yellow my wife say no--especially as it relates to cars. And houses. And upholstery. On the adapter we're only waiting on Jeff's neck surgery. He's the one that will be doing the installation video which is hard to do with numb hands and fingers.
|
|
|
Post by Woto-Wootr on Mar 8, 2024 20:59:33 GMT
Has the email for the pump gone out yet? Haven’t seen anything come through
|
|
|
Post by BoxGods on Mar 8, 2024 22:33:33 GMT
Has the email for the pump gone out yet? Haven’t seen anything come through No. Still waiting on a few of the parts quotes to come back. Soon.
|
|
|
Post by BoxGods on Mar 14, 2024 23:38:49 GMT
Question for the 10 people who already have the original Seaflo 23 test kits.
For the new cast aluminum housings I've tried to keep them as compact as possible for obvious reasons. One way to do that is to solder the power wires directly and forgo the bulky spade connectors. This also insures a solid arc free connection which improves longevity. Several of you have asked if you can keep your existing Seaflo 23 pump and just swap it into the new housing.
So the question is: How many of you are comfortable with basic soldering? Jeff has agreed to making a how to video guide.
OTOH is it worth it to save $30? I have been soldering for 40 years but personally I would just get the new cast aluminum pump and store the original as a backup. Save that 15-20 minutes for a nap =)
I would appreciate some feedback from you guys =)
|
|
|
Post by camaroz1985 on Mar 15, 2024 13:21:01 GMT
I remember someone posting 3D printed flanges and covers for the holes that we need to cut in the shelf. I can't seem to find them anymore. Anyone have the link? Edit: Found them. www.printables.com/model/626608-rivian-aftermarket-frunk-tank-lid-collarsGuess I will have to make something new for the new pump though. I bought an extra shelf from a dismantler so I can cut that shelf and keep my original if I want to go back to stock.
|
|
|
Post by Obfu on Mar 15, 2024 14:14:40 GMT
Question for the 10 people who already have the original Seaflo 23 test kits. For the new cast aluminum housings I've tried to keep them as compact as possible for obvious reasons. One way to do that is to solder the power wires directly and forgo the bulky spade connectors. This also insures a solid arc free connection which improves longevity. Several of you have asked if you can keep your existing Seaflo 23 pump and just swap it into the new housing. So the question is: How many of you are comfortable with basic soldering? Jeff has agreed to making a how to video guide. OTOH is it worth it to save $30? I have been soldering for 40 years but personally I would just get the new cast aluminum pump and store the original as a backup. Save that 15-20 minutes for a nap =) I would appreciate some feedback from you guys =) I think that includes me? I have soldering equipment but I don't consider myself very good at it. OTOH that opinion is based on attempts to solder tiny electronics back together. Soldering some basic wires together should be pretty straightforward, and I would be ok with that.
|
|